Jay (lalaladolcevita) wrote in closecutcult,
Jay
lalaladolcevita
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MENSWEAR S/S 05

As everyone knows menswear is the fear to tread waters of the fashion industry. Taking risks is not something that is too frequent and playing it safe is a common mantra for most designers. Men simply can't get away with the things women can. Even Comme des Garçons, the poster-child of Avant Garde fashion, recognize that while over-constructed biker jackets and exaggerated tutus can be sent out on the runway for girls, they must keep to basic suits and stay the course with relatively reserved clothes for the boys. There however many designers (CDG included) who are making progress in menswear with new cuts and fits, keen aesthetics, and a sense of fun and adventure that had previously been kept to the world of femme couture. Let's hear it for the boys

My Top 5 of S/S 05 Progressive Homme Couture

Bernhard Wilhem- This german/dutch designer who makes nostalgic and playful clothes for women has translated those same qualities for men. His recent Spring/Summer 05 show revealed a bright and contrasting color palette, bold patterns, and a quite unique and unconventional silhouette. Taking a cue from Japanese work-wear he had strong checkered prints, inflated cropped pants, and astonishing construction detail fit for a 19th century corset. His clothes are definitely for the men but are still fun, wearable, and truly unique.

Comme des Garçons- While Rei Kawakubo does not employ the same sense of innovation and deconstructionism as she does in her femme collection, she does have much to offer the menswear arena. Her Spring/Summer 05 collection featured pink as a main component and not just a smidge of a polo shirt or basic t-shirt (the standard limit for most men's will to dabble with the color). Instead she brought it on with entire suits, jackets, and trouser in various values of the tinted color. She also employed bold patterns of pink and complimenting neutrals that remained masculine yet bubbled slightly over the limits of traditional menswear.

Dior Homme- Hedi Slimane is known for his slim and sleek tailoring, effeminate accents, and radically tight silhouette. In his S/S 05 collection he did not disappoint. He took an even further delve into youth culture which he had been exploring in past seasons as well as his photography efforts (intermission, berlin). He offered up this season a collection with such a youthful bend that it almost made no room for traditional mens suits that are frequent in most Dior shows. Instead there were fuschia jeans, gold sports-jackets, and grungy prints suitable for the indie rock scene of the early 90's. His clothes this season were boyish, subtle, and filled with the progressive spirit of rock n roll.

Henrik Vibskov- Henrik came out with a collection full of some of the most wearable yet thoughtful clothes the designer has yet to show. It had a an urban/street flair definitely for the young male with a bit of an attitude. What made the clothes so interesting is that they maintain that attitude while implementing youthful details and cropped sports trousers, Day-Glo patterns white fabric, and and a soft silhouette. Less couture and more approachable for the everyday man than other designers but still as forward pushing as any other.

Raf Simons- The furniture designer turned tailor moved far away from the hippie/hare krishna look he had last S/S. In a similar vein of his A/W show he showcased brutally graphic tailoring, a sleek and exact silhouette, an the finishing details that have made Raf Simons the reigning king of menswear. This season color was absent in favor of mostly black and mostly white looks. Ranging from twilight hour coats to heavenly jackets the pieces were majestic, grand, and empowering. Even with the straightforward tailoring Simons included pieces that had such beautiful construction you would have expected it to be for women. Raf Simons playing off traditional menswear tailoring managed to push it's application into waters few other designers have sailed.


honorable mentions
John Galliano Homme
Dries Van Noten Homme
Cloak
Stephen Schneider
Alexander Mcqueen Men
Junya Watanabe
Siv Stodal
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